Paraty, Estrada Real

Emerging from the hinterland, I was delighted to reach the coastal town of Paraty in the state of Rio de Janeiro. Located on the Bay of Ilha Grande, which is dotted with islands, the town is surrounded by lush tropical forests, mountains and waterfalls. Paraty is the endpoint of the Caminho Velho (Old Path), and I successfully completed the second leg of my journey.

Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2019, Paraty is a wonderfully preserved colonial town with cobbled streets. To protect the cobblestones, vehicles are prohibited in the historic centre. Only foot traffic and bikes are allowed, and horses and carts are frequently seen.

Settled by colonists in 1667, Paraty became an important port for exporting gold from Minas to Lisbon, Portugal. Before the currently known Estrada Real, Portugal constructed the Caminho do Ouro (the Gold Trail), a 746mi (1200km) stone road connecting Diamantina via Ouro Preto to Paraty. As pirate attacks on gold-laden ships increased, the government built the New Path, a safer overland route from Minas to Rio that bypassed Paraty entirely.

With the new road in place and the subsequent decline of gold in the late 18th century, Paraty was forgotten and frozen in time. The town was rediscovered when a main road was built between Rio and Santos, passing through Paraty.

An interesting phenomenon occurs each month on a full moon. When the tide is high, water spills into the historic centre through openings in the seawalls, flooding the streets for a brief period. People living near the seawalls sometimes set up temporary bridges to help pedestrians cross flooded streets.

Given its coastal location, Paraty has numerous stunning beaches, easily reached on foot or by car. A handful of secluded beaches are also accessible via hiking trails or by boat. There are so many beach options that I am having a hard time deciding on where to go. But once done, I will head northeast to Barbacena, where I will connect with Caminho Novo (New Path).