Johnston Canyon, Banff

After I finished lunch on Whitehorn Mountain, I descended into Skoki Valley. Following the trail, I passed by the scree-covered Redoubt Mountain, named in 1908 after its resemblance to a military fortress. I hiked over Boulder Pass and arrived at Ptarmigan Lake.

The vista here is full of texture, from old rocky mountains of the Jurassic era to large boulders interspersed with small shrubs and grasses and the alpine lake. I found a large flat boulder to rest on and kept my eyes peeled, hoping to spot a ptarmigan, a gamebird in the grouse family. Since the bird has a heavy body and is adapted to the alpine environment, its flying capabilities are limited. They are a bit chameleon-like because, in the summer, their plumage is a mix of grey, brown and black, while in winter, they become completely white except for the eye patch and the tips of the tail, which remain black.

A short while later, I continued toward Deception Pass and finished my day at Skoki Lodge. This historic log cabin is accessible by cross-country skiing in winter and hiking or horseback riding in summer. The lodge was originally built for local skiers. Two of the builders lived in a teepee during the construction phase. Living in bear country, they ingeniously trimmed the branches of a spruce tree, calling it "the bear escape". Fortunately, grizzlies don't climb trees, giving them a safety net. 

The original single-storey log cabin opened in 1931. Over the next six decades, it expanded and changed hands many times until in 1992 it was designated a National Historic Site. The interior is rustic, authentic and charming. Historic black and white photographs hang on the walls, while landscape paintings by prominent 20th-century Banff artists Peter and Catharine Whyte hang in the bedrooms. There is no electricity, no plumbing and only one cold tap in the kitchen. Kerosene lamps light the rooms, and anyone keen on a wash can take a quick dip in the nearby frigid creek. This is backcountry living at its most immersive. Thankfully for me, it was the height of summer, and a night at Skoki Lodge was a delightful experience.

The next day, I travelled to Johnston Canyon, arriving at its campground in the early morning. Without delay, I picked up a small travel pack containing water and snacks, crossed the road and immediately headed for the path that runs alongside Johnston Creek. Originating north of Castle Mountain within a glacial valley, the creek winds south through the breathtaking Johnston Canyon. Bounded by towering limestone walls, the creek rushes through the narrowly carved gorge as if in a hurry. 

 I followed the river along a well-paved trail to reach the lower waterfall. I watched it cascade over the edge before continuing deeper into the canyon toward the upper waterfall. The trail ended at a tunnel leading me to a gorgeous viewpoint of the upper fall, where it plummets 131ft (40m). During winter, the waterfall freezes and becomes a site for ice-climbing activities.

Happy with my experience, I head back to the campground for my overnight stay.