Calf Mountain, Appalachian Trail

I woke up early before the sun started coming up. I prepped my hot coffee and went to sit near McAfee Knob's edge. The world was still wrapped in darkness, but a faint glow stretched across the horizon. Slowly, the deep blues of the night gave way to purples and pinks that melted into streaks of fiery orange. The sky came alive, painting the landscape in soft, golden light as the sun edged higher. The distant ridges, shadowed just moments ago, lit up like a sea of rolling hills. I waited until the striking sunrise colours had passed before packing up. Slinging my pack over my shoulders, I took one last glance at the view and started my hike toward Calf Mountain.

The trail eased me into the day with a gradual descent off McAfee Knob, heading toward Tinker Cliffs. From there, the path led me on a long, gradual descent to Carvins Cove Reservoir Lookout. This fabulous crescent-shaped reservoir hugged the green hills perfectly, almost wrapping itself around them. The view was picture-perfect. While supplying water to Roanoke, the reservoir is also popular for mountain biking and water activities.

I kept moving, and the trail took me down into Daleville, a small resupply town. I stopped for a hearty meal at Three Li'l Pigs BBQ, where I piled my plate high with slow-cooked pulled pork, tangy coleslaw, and baked beans. So delicious, just what I needed.

The climb to Fullhardt Knob was steady, pulling me up to nearly 3,000ft (914 m). I felt the familiar strain in my legs as the elevation climbed, but the shaded canopy offered some relief from the afternoon sun. Thunder Hill came next, rising another 1,000ft (300m), with steeper inclines that tested my stamina. The forest views and distant ridges were a great distraction.

The long descent toward James River Footbridge was a rollercoaster, eventually dropping me to 650ft (198m). As I approached the bridge, I stopped to admire its impressive span. At 625ft (190m), it's the longest pedestrian-only bridge on the AT. It was built in 2000, replacing the dangerous and inconvenient route that had previously required hikers to cross U.S. Route 501. The bridge was named after Bill Foot, a dedicated hiker and trail advocate who played a key role in its construction. Crossing the bridge, I stopped midway, looking over James River below. I was grateful for this peaceful crossing but knew what was coming on the other side.

The climb to The Priest was relentless, with endless switchbacks gaining about 3400ft (1,036m). It was followed by a challenging descent before another intense climb to Three Ridges. This section in Virginia is notorious for its difficulty, and now I understand why. With Rockfish Gap just ahead, I pushed through, looking forward to the change in terrain.

Reaching Rockfish Gap felt like crossing another threshold. It's where the Blue Ridge Parkway meets Skyline Drive, marking the entrance to Shenandoah National Park. The terrain ahead promised a change of pace. The climbs were gentler, the ridgelines smoother, and the views more frequent. 

The final stretch to Calf Mountain was almost meditative. The trail rolled gently upward, a relief after the challenges I had faced earlier. The summit came quietly, with no dramatic climb to announce its arrival.