Donner Summit, Pacific Crest

The trail wound through the rugged terrain, and soon, I was surrounded by a series of pristine lakes, each offering its unique beauty. Among them was Ralston Lake, situated beneath Ralston Peak, named after William Chapman Ralston, a key figure in California’s history. He founded the Bank of California in 1864, the first commercial bank in the western U.S. and once the second wealthiest in the nation.

Ralston’s influence extended beyond banking, building the luxurious Palace Hotel in San Francisco. The hotel was one of the most lavish and technologically advanced of its time, boasting modern amenities like indoor plumbing, electric lighting, and a sophisticated heating system. It quickly became a symbol of the wealth and grandeur that defined California’s growing status. Unfortunately, Ralston’s financial empire collapsed only days before the hotel’s opening. While the bank collapsed, the hotel endured, remaining an iconic part of San Francisco’s landscape.

Crossing Dick's Pass and descending to Dick's Lake at the base of Dick's Peak, I was sure there was a story behind the name. It turns out that all these places are tied to the legend of Captain Richard "Dick" Barter, the "Hermit of Emerald Bay".

This eccentric 19th-century Englishman lived in complete solitude in Emerald Bay off Lake Tahoe for at least a decade, working as a caretaker. Known for his oddities, he built himself a rock grave on the bay’s only island and crafted a 7ft (2m) model of a steam frigate. With time on his hands, Dick also built a full-sized boat named Nancy. Partial to bourbon, he regularly rowed 16mi (25km) to Tahoe City for a few social drinks. One night, 6mi (10km) into his return journey, his boat capsized. Tying a bowline around his chest, he swam back to shore, tucked himself into bed, and went to sleep. The next day, he woke to frostbite on his toes, which he then amputated himself. Good ol’ Dick thought nothing of it, regaling his drinking buddies with stories of the ordeal. He wasn’t so lucky the next time, though, when his boat was found smashed to pieces. Having never found his body, Dick was presumed dead. 

Pushing onward, I got a fabulous view of Lake Tahoe. Somewhere in the deep blue below, Tahoe Tessie was probably watching, but she stayed out of sight—perhaps not a fan of hikers. A distant cousin of Scotland’s Nessie, Tessie is said to lurk in the lake’s depths, surfacing just often enough to keep the legend alive. Maybe she enjoys the solitude, much like the old hermit Captain Dick, or perhaps she’s just waiting for the right moment to prove she’s more than a ripple in the water.

Reaching Donner Summit was a cause for celebration. Two-thirds of the PCT in California was now behind me. With the Central California stretch complete, I could reflect on how far I’d come. The miles had tested me, but standing there, I was proud of my accomplishment.

Yet, this place holds a much darker history. In the winter of 1846-47, the Donner Party became trapped by heavy snowfall, their hopes dashed by the harsh conditions that led to starvation and tragedy. As I stood there, with the wind howling through the pines, it was impossible not to think of their isolation and desperation. For me, the trail stretched on, but for them, this was the end of the road.