North Yuba River, Pacific Crest

The trail beneath I-80 is quiet, save for the occasional rustling of leaves as I make my way through the underpass, moving from the bustle of the highway into the peaceful woodland. The trail turns left, guiding me past lakes and through thick forest. As I crest the rise and descend, the landscape unfolds, revealing a valley between Basin and Castle Peaks. The two mountains form a striking natural bridge, their ridgelines connecting in a dramatic, seamless arc. From up here, I can see the PCT winding below beside Frog Lake and Prosser Reservoir.

As I navigate switchbacks through the dense forest, each turn demands more of my energy. The burn in my legs is relentless, my calves and shins protesting with every step as the steep incline forces them to work harder. Each movement sends a wave of discomfort, a constant ache that builds with every upward stride. Yet, despite the pain, I press on, feeling the weight of the trail pushing me deeper into this wild landscape, where the forest grows thicker, more untamed with every upward stride.

At North Creek, I’m fortunate to cross a solid bridge before continuing my ascent, the mountain slope rising steadily beneath my feet. But my luck runs out at White Cross Creek. The bridge is nowhere in sight, and I’m faced with fording the shallow, cool waters. Reluctantly, I sit on a nearby rock, pulling off my boots to save them from getting soaked again. The cold water chills my toes, but it’s the least of my worries as I carefully test each step, searching for stable rocks beneath the surface. My heart races a little as I maneuver, balancing myself and watching the current swirl around my legs. Each step feels like a small gamble, the slippery stones threatening to send me tumbling, but I steady myself and make it across. With my boots back on and my legs a little wobbly, I’m ready to continue the climb.

As the trail winds through Bear Valley and skims the Jackson Meadows Reservoir, I pause to take it all in. The history of this place isn't immediately apparent, but knowing that this reservoir was created by the damming of the Middle Yuba River gives it a deeper sense of life and purpose. The dam was part of the ambitious Yuba-Bear Hydroelectric Project, a critical piece of infrastructure that helped support the growing needs of the surrounding communities. The project, which involved the construction of several dams and power plants along the Yuba and Bear River systems, was designed to control flooding, provide irrigation water and generate hydroelectric power for the region. It’s one of many engineering feats that shaped the area, transforming it from a rugged wilderness into a resource-rich backbone of the local economy. The Jackson Meadows Reservoir itself became an important part of this network, storing water for both agricultural use and electricity generation. 

The trail continues, guiding me through a dense ravine, the trees thickening as I descend towards the North Yuba River. Sierra City, just a short distance away, feels like a time capsule. In 1850, Philo A. Haven and Joseph Zumwalt were among the first to settle here. Three years later, disaster struck when an avalanche buried the town, sweeping away what little had been built. But the settlers, like many others during the Gold Rush, were determined to rebuild, driven by the promise of gold. The effort paid off when a 106lb (48kg) gold nugget was discovered, sparking a renewed rush of prospectors. 

Entering Tahoe National Forest, the trail winds through this vast expanse, hugging the western edge of Lake Tahoe. The contrast between the lush, forested lower elevations and the jagged, high-elevation terrain of the Granite Chief Wilderness is striking. The rugged wilderness, with its towering granite outcrops, provides a vital nesting ground for birds of prey, including golden eagles and peregrine falcons.