Feather River, Pacific Crest

After crossing North Yuba River, the trail begins to climb sharply, gaining 1,400ft (426m) through tight switchbacks. As with any climb, it’s another strenuous ascent, but before long, I am on the flanks of the Sierra Buttes Peaks, some 2,000ft (610m) above Sierra City. The town, with its small population, is now just a distant speck. 

I truly enjoy walking along ridgelines. There’s something about how the views open up, offering a sense of freedom. From here, the landscape stretches out in every direction. Below me, I can see a series of lakes nestled amidst the peaks of Mount Elwell and Mount Washington. I pause, taking it all in.

At McRae Ridge, I exit Tahoe National Forest and enter the historic Plumas National Forest. Sprawled over a million acres, this forest has more than 127,000 old-growth trees. As I take in the views, I reflect on how the landscape has been shaped by centuries of logging. It started during the gold rush when timber was vital for mining, fuel, and construction. This expansion continued into the 20th century, leading to the felling of much of the original old-growth to meet growing demand. The loss of these ancient trees and their deep root systems that stabilised the soil profoundly impacted the ecosystem. While younger trees have since emerged, they can’t replace the complexity and biodiversity of the original forest. Debates over protecting the remaining old growth while balancing economic needs continue to evolve.

Moving on, the trail winds through woodland and descends alongside Onion Valley Creek. Here, I cross the Middle Fork Feather River via a bridge. This major river, at nearly 100mi (160km) long, has been designated a National Wild and Scenic River, protecting it from future developments, such as dams. Though rarely visited due to its remoteness and challenging terrain, the designation guarantees the preservation of its natural landscape.

From Mount Pleasant, I begin a long, gradual descent to Feather River near Belden. As a major tributary of the Sacramento River, it was at the heart of gold mining in the 19th century. It continues to serve as a crucial water source, supporting hydroelectric generation. This is the perfect spot to fill up my water bottles, and I take care to filter them. Water filtration is essential here, as it removes harmful bacteria, viruses, and contaminants that can lead to illness. It’s a necessary step to ensure the water is clean and safe to drink, especially in remote areas like this where access to reliable water sources is limited.