McArthur-Burney Falls, Pacific Crest

Trailing along the mountain slope alongside Chips Creek, I’ve entered Lassen National Forest, named after pioneer Peter Lassen. Born in Denmark, Lassen emigrated to the United States in the early 1800s, looking for a fresh start in the expanding frontier. At the time, California was a melting pot of cultures—Native Americans inhabited the land, Russians held territory on the coast, Mexicans were in control, and British and North American settlers vied for a stake in the land. In this diverse, often conflicting environment, Lassen’s Danish background made him stand out, yet it didn’t stop him. He became a guide and prospector, playing a key role in opening up northern California through his work on the Lassen Trail, an offshoot of the California Trail. His resilience and ability to forge through challenges made him a true frontiersman.

The forest wraps around Lassen Volcanic National Park, with Lassen Peak as its highest point. Although not directly on the trail, it's worth noting that Lassen Peak marks the end of the Sierras and the start of the Cascade Range.

As I reach Humboldt Peak, the trail curves, skirting the ridge near Butt Mountain. The air cools, offering a refreshing change, and the sound of rushing water fills the air. The trail dips into the valley, running beside the North Fork Feather River. After crossing the creek, I ascend the opposite slope. The climb grows steeper, and each step takes more effort. I pause now and then to peek at the views through the trees.

The forest remains thick until I arrive at Little Willow Lake, a rare and special botanical spot. The shore is covered in sphagnum moss, transforming the area into a fen, a wet meadow without soil. This unique habitat supports plants like American Scheuchzeria, which was once thought extinct until its rediscovery here in 1988. Carnivorous plants like English sundew and roundleaf sundew feast on flies, while blooming herbs add colour to the fen. Because of its rarity, Willow Lake has been designated a Botanical Special Interest Area.

After soaking in the beauty of Willow Lake, I return to the PCT and soon encounter the Terminal Geyser, spewing water from deep beneath the earth's surface. Just ahead, Boiling Springs Lake catches my eye with its milky surface, resulting from an underground heat source that produces hydrochloric acid and sulphurous fumes. As I approach the shore, the air is thick with the scent of minerals, where boiling mud pots bubble and hiss, adding to the eerie and fascinating geothermal landscape.

The trail then takes me through Warner Valley, winding past lakes and peaks and circling Badger Mountain. It climbs steeply with long switchbacks, offering a challenging yet rewarding ascent. At the top, I follow the slope before descending into Plum Valley, then rise again, contouring around a canyon before dropping down near the Cinder Flats State Wildlife Area, a peaceful haven for birdwatching. Reaching Baum Lake marks the end of this section, with the journey culminating at Burney Falls in McArthur-Burney Falls State Park, California's second oldest state park. Named after pioneer Samuel Burney, the falls were preserved in the 1920s by the McArthur family and, in 1954, was designated a National Natural Landmark.