Etna Summit, Pacific Crest

As I climbed higher into Castle Crags State Park, I thought about the early explorers who crossed these rugged mountains, their stories etched into the rocks around me. One of the most influential was John C. Fremont, whose detailed maps of California and the Oregon Trail played a crucial role in the westward expansion. His explorations opened the way for settlers to reach the Shasta Valley, just beyond Castle Crags, and laid the groundwork for the Transcontinental Railroad. 

But long before Fremont's expeditions, this land was home to the Yurok and Karuk people. These tribes knew the land intimately, relying on its rivers, lakes, and forests for sustenance and spiritual practices. 

Continuing north, I passed between two lakes, contemplating the difficulty of the terrain. It’s a wonder at the courage of those who attempted to traverse it. Many didn’t make it, but one of them who did was Father Florian Schwenninger. An Austrian from Innsbruck, Father Florian migrated to the U.S. in 1844. A few years later, he entered the wilds of Klamath National Forest and built the Sawyers Bar Catholic Church in 1855. The church, still standing today, was a beacon for those who ventured into these remote mountains in the mid-1800s, seeking fortune and solace. Father Schwenninger’s first Mass, held in 1857, marked the beginning of a spiritual journey and devoted service. 

Climbing toward Russian Peak, I entered the Russian Wilderness, established as part of a larger effort to protect untouched landscapes from logging and development. This 12,000-acre area safeguards Russian Mountain and connects to the Trinity Alps Wilderness and Marble Mountain Wilderness, forming a vital corridor for migrating wildlife. Early conservationists like Bob Marshall and Aldo Leopold were instrumental in advocating for wilderness areas like this, stressing the importance of preserving such places for future generations.

Bob Marshall, a wilderness advocate, and Aldo Leopold, a renowned ecologist, were central to founding the Wilderness Society and pushing to protect wild landscapes. Thanks to their efforts, the organisation helped create the 1964 Wilderness Act, which led to the creation of the National Wilderness Preservation System, now protecting 109 million acres of U.S. public wildlands.

By the time I reached Etna Summit, I couldn’t ignore the delicate balance between human progress and wilderness preservation. We push forward, expanding and building, yet these wild places remind me that not all growth should come at nature’s expense. The real challenge is finding a way to move ahead without losing sight of what makes these landscapes so invaluable—where development and conservation aren’t at odds but in harmony.