Coba, Chichen Itza

Here I am in Coba, staring up at one of the tallest Maya structures on the peninsula, the temple pyramid called Ixmoja. It is 138ft (42m) tall and part of the Nohoch Mul complex of pyramids. As I contemplate the effort needed to ascend, I am reminded that it is the only climbable pyramid on this route and, therefore, an experience not to be missed. The top affords incredible views of the surrounding jungle, and I hope to catch a glimpse of Chichen Itza in the distance.

Before I start this climb, let me tell you about its history. Archaeological evidence indicates that Coba was initially settled somewhere between 50 BC to 100 AD. The city flourished from 600 to 900 AD and became one of the most powerful cities in the region, with a thriving population of around 50,000 people. During its peak, Coba was ruled by a series of kings known as the "k'uhul ajaw" ("divine lord"). The kings believed they were closely related to the gods and acted as mediators between the gods and the people. They oversaw the construction of grand buildings and led elaborate religious ceremonies.

One of the unique features of Coba was its system of elevated stone roads, called sacbeob that connected the city to smaller settlements and outlying structures. The sacbeob were a vital part of the Maya trade and communication system, with the longest sacbe stretching westward over 62mi (100km), connecting Coba to the site of Yaxuna. The sacbeob were typically 10-30ft wide (3-9m) and elevated above ground about 3ft (1m), allowing people to walk or transport goods above the dense jungle floor. The word sacbe comes from the Mayan language, meaning "white road," and it refers to the limestone stucco placed over the stone and rubble fill, giving the road its white appearance. More than 50 sacbeob have been discovered in and around Coba, illustrating the importance and influence of the city.

Coba's name is believed to mean "waters stirred by the wind", which is fitting considering its proximity to Lake Coba and Lake Macanxoc. Encircled by reeds, Lake Coba is known for lurking crocodiles, and while a zip line crosses a portion of the lake, it would be wise to avoid landing in the reeds.

Southeast of the Nohoch Mul and past Lake Macanxoc is the Macanxoc Group. It is made up of three large buildings that surround a central courtyard. It is thought that the buildings were used as an administrative centre. A number of restored stelae can be found here, including Stela 1, a 13ft (4m) tall limestone monument. It features the image of one of the ruling kings and a lengthy text containing over 300 glyph blocks that describe historical events. Unfortunately, the carvings on the stelae have faded extensively due to the poor quality of the stone and insufficient preservation efforts. As a result, gaining knowledge from these carvings has been very difficult.

Let's go back to Ixmoja, the pyramid I mentioned earlier. Ixmoja was built from a series of platforms stacked up on one another. The temple sat on the final platform reached by climbing 120 steep steps. The million-dollar question is: how did the kings manage to climb those stairs? Did they find some more efficient form of climbing, like an elaborate staircase or a ramp system? There's little archaeological evidence of this feat. But for me, it looks like I’ll be climbing it one step at a time. Luckily there’s a thick rope in the middle for safety. Here I go!!